Fernão Pires
APPEARANCE
ON THE VINE: A strong to medium grower that ripens early, the variety is characteristically quite drab in the vineyard, rather than a vibrant green. Quite tight, medium size bunches, while the berries are oval in shape and green/yellow in colour.
IN THE GLASS: An attractive white wine, if unremarkable colour wise
SMELL
Muscat scents – honey, pepper, spice, and citronella lemon, although some tasters get boiled cabbage!
TASTE
Tropical fruit such as mango, with Muscat spiciness following through from the nose and some lemony notes. It is usually easy-drinking but with a full mouthfeel. It can resemble Chenin Blanc in its firm acidity. Alcohol can be high, and the variety can sometimes taste (and smell) of pepper.
ORIGIN
The biggest plantings in the world can be found in Portugal – notably in Ribatejo. In Barraida the grape is known as Maria Gomes and is used for the production of sparkling wine. Sub-varieties are Beco and Fernão Pirão (although they are not as heavily fruited and perfumed as Fernão Pires). Also known as Fernam Pires.
IN SOUTH AFRICA
One of the few countries outside Portugal to cultivate this grape, where it made its mark in the drier, hotter winegrowing areas – Robertson's Van Loveren were the first to bottle a Fernão Pires in 1982. Initially made dry and quite alcoholic, the wines have evolved, and most winemakers have settled for a far more appealing, slightly sweeter style. It still has its Muscat character but some lemony citrus fruit is usually evident these days.
ELSEWHERE IN THE WORLD
AGEING POTENTIAL
Best enjoyed as a fruity, easy-drinking wine. Keep for 12 to 18 months but no longer than two years.
MATCHING WITH FOOD
Delicate spicy foods, for example a peppery salad containing rocket leaves.
SERVING TEMPERATURE
An ideal summer wine best served chilled at between 8° and 14° C.